When I think backcountry comfort, I think sleeping bag. Nothing is more miserable than a long, cold night in the woods. A good sleeping bag can last 20+ years so it’s worth picking the right one. In this guide I’ll break down sleeping bags vs quilts, what really matters (and what doesn’t), and guidelines for buying the best sleeping bag for elk hunting.
This guide is written with an emphasis on lightweight, backpacking quilts and sleeping bags for elk hunting but also applies to almost any backcountry hunting endeavor. As always, I put my recommendations right up top since I go into so much detail later on. Make sure to scroll down if you really want to understand the “why” not just the “what”.
My recommendations: the best sleeping bag for elk hunting
If you’re in a hurry, here’s a quick summary and some recommendations: the best option for 90% of hunters is a mummy style sleeping bag with down insulation and a 10-15 degree EN/ISO lower limit rating (ratings are always off by 10+ degrees!).
- Best sleeping bag at any cost: Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20 (10 degree equivalent)
- 950+ fill, insanely light, US made with ability to refill later
- Note: Feathered Friends’ 20 degree bags are equivalent to a 10 degree EN/ISO rated bag. The Lark 10 is equivalent to a 0 degree bag if you sleep cold. FF also offers wide and narrow version of their bags.
- Best value of any sleeping bag: REI Magma 15
- Easy to find on a 30% off sale–otherwise get a Feathered Friends
- Great combo of weight and price, although 15 degree EN/ISO rating is on the border of what most people need for September
- Best budget sleeping bag: Kelty Cosmic 20
- Yes, it’s slightly above my recommended range, but you won’t find any 10 or 15 degree bags for around $125 on sale. It’s a great buy.
How to pick the best sleeping bag for elk hunting
Archery elk season sees a wide range of temperatures especially in the backcountry. Normal dates are anywhere from August to October which means temps from 80 all the way down to 10 degrees. I’ve been snowed on every time I’ve hunted in September, so don’t think that early necessarily means warm!
With that in mind, here’s a summary of what matters when you’re buying a sleeping bag (or quilt) for backcountry elk hunting:
- Critical factors
- Quilt vs Sleeping Bag
- Sleeping bags are warmer, easier to use, and have consistent temp ratings.
- Quilts can be lighter, lower volume, and slightly less expensive, but do not insulate your entire body and let in drafty air.
- 90% of hunters will do better with a sleeping bag since hunting occurs in chilly shoulder seasons.
- Temperature Rating
- The standard EN/ISO sleeping bag ratings are always off by 10-15 degrees (20-25 degrees in quilts)
- Use the “Comfort Rating” not the “Lower Limit” rating (what is listed on bags) for a better approximation of true warmth
- That means a 10-15 degree bag is best for the average hunter in elk season, adjust up or down according to your individual situation
- Insulation type
- Down insulation is far lighter, more compressible, and longer lasting (20+ years) than synthetic insulation but doesn’t insulate when wet
- Synthetic insulation is much cheaper than down but is heavy, bulky, and can lose loft in 5-10 years. It does insulate you when it’s wet.
- Down is the best choice for the majority of hunters during elk season since it’s easy to keep it dry with the right precautions.
- Weight, volume, and fill power
- Down is graded by fill power, which is the volume (in cubic inches) an ounce of material occupies.
- Fill power generally ranges from 600-950+ for sleeping bags.
- Higher ratings provide a much higher warmth/weight ratio, compress more easily, but cost much more.
- Sleeping pad
- Your body compresses the insulation below you, so it doesn’t provide warmth. Even an ultra warm sleeping bag will be freezing cold without a properly insulated sleeping pad.
- Aim for an R-value (insulation rating) of at least 3.5+ for September and 5+ for October/November (and stay tuned for the Gear Guide soon)
- Quilt vs Sleeping Bag
- Somewhat important factors
- Fit
- Use manufacturers guidelines on length, but always err on a bag that’s too long. Too short and you’ll compress the down which usually means cold feet. You can also use the extra room to keep items warm at night.
- Most sleeping bags are one size fits all, but high end versions offer multiple widths. Tighter sleeping bags are more efficient but some people don’t like the feel.
- Fabric type
- All ultralight sleeping bags are made of very thin materials. That’s not a problem but make sure to treat them gently!
- Waterproof fabric isn’t necessary if you plan on sleeping in a waterproof shelter (it’s heavy, expensive, and clammy)
- Pillow
- For only two ounces a pillow can make a massive difference in comfort (especially if you’re a side sleeper)
- I recommend the Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow
- Stuff sack
- A waterproof stuff sack is cheap insurance to keep your down sleeping bag dry all the time. You can also use a trash bag in a pinch.
- I’m a fan of the Sea to Summit Ultra Sil Dry Sack
- Shelter type
- A down sleeping bag is great if you’re in a fully waterproof shelter like a tent (see the Shelter/Tents Gear Guide)
- Shelters that aren’t waterproof or are exposed to air currents might require a sleeping bag with synthetic insulation, waterproof fabric, and/or a lower temp rating.
- Baffle design
- Continuous baffles allow you to move down from the back to the front of the bag to regulate temperature, which is a nice feature.
- Waterproof down
- Waterproof down has a plastic coating that has unknown longevity (when will it stop working?), is slightly heavier, and is slightly colder (less loft)
- Normal down works fine if you are careful and down coatings aren’t a silver bullet. Either option will work fine.
- Price
- Sleeping bags are one of the heaviest and bulkiest items in your pack and a good one lasts 20+ years. They can be worth the investment.
- Budget bags perform the exact same as expensive ones (they’re just heavier and bulkier) so you can save money if you need
- Buying a cheap bag to test temperature ratings first and using it as a backup later on is a nice compromise
- Fit
- Not important
- Left or Right Zipper
- Zipper positioning only matters for couples that are trying to zip their sleeping bags together
- Color
- Your bag will always be in your pack or your tent. Don’t worry about it.
- Left or Right Zipper
Phew! That’s just the summary believe it or not. If you follow that advice I’m confident you’ll end up with the best sleeping bag for elk hunting (for you). Want to understand why? Read on.
Critical factors for choosing the best sleeping bag for elk hunting
These are the things that really matter when you’re deciding between different options for a sleeping bag (or quilt).
Critical: Quilt vs Sleeping Bag
If you hang out with backpackers long enough you’ll notice that many have switched to quilts instead of a mummy style sleeping bag. A quilt is simply a sleeping bag that doesn’t have a zipper or a hood and (generally) stops around chest/shoulder height. The idea is that you wear your jackets and a beanie to sleep since you’re carrying them already. Here are the benefits of the two options before I give you my point of view:
- Quilts
- Lighter & lower volume
- The reason backpackers choose quilts is they use less material
- (Sometimes) Cheaper
- Since they use less material, quilts can be cheaper, but the difference is pretty small to nonexistent with truly equivalent temp ratings & materials.
- Less restrictive
- This is more about sizing your sleeping bag properly, but some people simply don’t like the feeling of sleeping fully enclosed.
- No zipper = no zipper issues
- Lighter & lower volume
- Mummy sleeping bag
- Warmer
- Even the most die hard quilt fans admit a mummy bag is warmer across a broader range of conditions
- Mummy bags don’t leak air out the sides or top when you move or roll over
- Standardized Ratings
- Quilts have standard ratings but they’re still a guess since warmth depends on the clothing and headgear on your upper body (which is exposed)
- Sleeping bag ratings are at least consistent and predictable, even if they’re optimistic…
- Always subtract 10 degrees from quilt ratings when comparing to sleeping bags (i.e. a 10 degree quilt = a 20 degree sleeping bag)
- Easier to use
- Doesn’t require a perfect match with the sleeping pad, setting up/breaking down attachment points, and remembering your upper body sleeping gear.
- Work for all types of sleepers
- Side sleepers or those that shift around at night generally do better with a fully enclosed sleeping bag since quilts can be drafty.
- Warmer
While the comparison isn’t black and white (there are sleeping bags without hoods and quilts that have them), the general concept remains the same. So which is right for you? My answer: if you’re asking that question, probably a sleeping bag. The last thing I want to be worrying about during an early snowstorm is if I’ll be warm enough. I like to have my clothing as a “reserve” in case things get nasty, not a standard part of my sleep system.
That said, if you run really hot, are obsessed with weight, hunt mostly during August/early September, have backcountry experience, and/or are willing to take the time and effort to perfect in your setup, a quilt can be a good option. For 90% of hunters I’d recommend a mummy style sleeping bag for elk hunting until you are very comfortable in the backcountry.
Critical: Temperature rating
Sleeping bag warmth is highly subjective and varies by age, metabolism, sex, nutrition/hydration, and a lot of other factors. It’s important to know that sleeping bag temperature ratings are averages and you probably aren’t average. If in doubt, get a warmer bag.
The good news is that most bags are rated on the EN/ISO standard which makes them easier to compare. A sleeping bag’s temperature rating is always overrated by at least 10-15 degrees (Quilts are off by 20-25 degrees, and use a different standard). Why is that? Well first, the standard assumes someone is wearing full base layers, a hat, and has a super insulating pad. Most importantly, there are actually four temperature ratings given by the standard when a bag is tested. Only two really matter:
- Comfort Rating
- Level at which the average woman can sleep through the night undisturbed
- The best rating to tell the true warmth of the bag
- Limit Rating
- Level at which the average man can sleep through the night undisturbed
- The rating that goes on most bags, even though it’s wrong
The key words here are “average” and “comfort”. Limit doesn’t mean you’re feeling good, it just means you don’t have to get up and pace around the tent. Almost all manufacturers use the limit rating on their bag which actually would be a miserable night’s sleep. In reality, you want to use the comfort rating (at least) and remember that also assumes you’re wearing base layers, etc. All told, always add 10-15 degrees to a sleeping bag’s limit rating and 20-25 degrees for a quilt.
Since elk season sees early snow storms and solid below freezing temps at night (I’ve seen down to 10, but 20s are fairly common), you’ll want a 10-15 degree EN/ISO rated bag or warmer. Don’t be tempted by light weights and lower prices, it’s always easier to open a bag up to cool off than to try to create extra warmth.
Some manufacturers don’t use ISO/EN ratings and the best way to compare their ratings is to compare fill weights with an ISO/EN rated bag (just remember to look at fill power too!). For example, a Feathered Friends 20 degree bag isn’t rated but is actually 10+ degrees warmer than a standard 20 degree EN/ISO bag.
You can also add warmth to bags by wearing your clothes to bed, bringing a beanie, getting a higher R-value sleeping pad, or adding a sleeping bag liner. However, never factor those tricks into buying a bag since you want to have them as backups in case you discover your bag is too cold.
Critical: Insulation type
The actual insulating material, called “fill”, in a sleeping bag can be one of two types: down or synthetic. Down refers to the ultra fine inner feathers on geese and ducks that occur naturally. Synthetic materials are man made fibers that are usually plastic based and never quite as fine as the real thing. There are some big tradeoffs, so here’s a list of which is best for each situation:
- Warmth/Weight ratio: Down
- Down is far warmer or lighter than synthetic materials
- Longevity: Down
- Down bags can last for 20+ years when cared for properly. Synthetic materials will start to “compact” and can lose insulating properties after only 5 years.
- Water Resistance: Synthetic
- Down does not insulate when it gets wet, so it needs to be protected. Synthetic materials will still retain some heat when wet and dry far quicker.
- Price: Synthetic
- Synthetic materials are generally much cheaper than even the lowest grades of down
Unless you have a bare minimum budget or plan on reusing your bag in a rainforest, I highly recommend a down sleeping bag. Elk season does get weather but what really matters is the humidity, which is generally low. Down is the defacto standard because it’s easy to keep it dry in a tent or waterproof sack and the benefits far outweigh the effort.
Critical: Weight, volume, and fill power
Sleeping bags are one of the heaviest and bulkiest items in your pack so you can save on both with a nicer model. You already know synthetic is the heaviest, so if you’re like 90% of hunters you’ll be going with down fill. It’s important to know that not all down is the same: it’s actually graded by something called fill power.
Fill power is a standardized measurement that tells you how much space (volume) a single ounce of down takes up. For example, 600 fill power means the down occupies 600 cubic inches of space. The higher the rating, the more air the down traps, which means it will be warmer and it will be easier to compress. Win win! Here’s a overview of down grades:
- <600 fill power
- You generally don’t see fill weights in these ranges in sleeping bags (for example, 300 fill is the rating of pure exterior feathers)
- 600-750 fill power
- Good fill power that is the “basic” standard. Usually from ducks.
- 750-850 fill power
- Great fill power that is usually a goose/duck blend
- 850-950+ fill power
- Highest quality possible. Almost always white goose down.
So why not 950+ fill for everything? You guessed it, it’s not cheap. Whether it’s worth it is up to you but know that if you’re comparing two options the higher fill power is always better.
Critical: Sleeping pad R-value
Wait, I thought this was a sleeping bag guide? It’s important to know that no matter how warm your bag is, the weight of your body crushes the insulation below you. That means that unless your sleeping pad is insulated too then one side of your body is touching cold air, which can undo the benefits of the warmest bag.
The R-value of a pad is a measurement of how warm it is. I’ll write a gear guide on pads soon, but for now I’d recommend an R-value of at least 3.5+ for September hunts and 5+ for October/November. I use a 6.9 R-value year round since there isn’t much downside.
Somewhat Important factors for the best sleeping bag for elk hunting
These are factors that might be important (depending on your situation) but aren’t essential like the features above:
Somewhat important: Fit
Sleeping bag length is generally pretty easy to get right: simply follow the manufacturers guidelines for your height. If in doubt you should definitely err on the side of longer. A tight fit that means that you’re compressing the insulation at the bottom of the bag which leads to cold feet. Also, extra space at the bottom of the bag allows you to keep items like clothing, electronics, or water filters warm at night or to use a nalgene bottle filled with hot water if your feet are always cold.
Most sleeping bags come in one width that will work for most folks. That said, if you have extra room (“dead space”) inside your sleeping bag then you’re carrying around extra material and heating that air up for no reason. High end sleeping bag companies offer multiple sleeping bag widths so you can find the one that’s just right and save some weight (often up to a ⅓ a pound).
The inverse is also true: if you have extra wide shoulders or want a women’s cut there are options for you. Some people also really do or don’t like sleeping with a tight fitted bag. Just make sure to try it out in your house before you make the final call!
Somewhat important: Fabric type
Ultralight sleeping bags can use some truly thin fabrics in the 5-10 denier range (for example, a human hair is around 20d). Not only are they lighter but the reduced weight actually allows the down to “loft” or expand more which makes you warmer. The downside is that like other ultralight items (tents, jackets, etc) it’s easier to tear those fabrics.
Is that a problem? Not really. Your bag will be inside a stuff sack and inside a tent almost 100% of the time. Do know that you have to be careful with your bag and keep it away from sharp objects. If you know you’re hard on your stuff simply get a version with a 20-30d+ fabric shell.
Avoid waterproof sleeping bag fabrics since they are more expensive, far heavier, and don’t breathe as well (which means clammy sleep). The only time you’d need waterproof fabric is if you have a shelter that isn’t sealed or are in a truly wet environment.
Somewhat important: Pillow
For years I tried to use various items like my jacket for a pillow and inevitably I woke up with a stiff neck (and tossed and turned all night). I’m a side sleeper, so your experience may vary, but try sleeping without a pillow one night at home and see how you do. I’m a big proponent of getting great quality sleep to aid recovery while you’re hunting instead of saving 2 measly ounces.
I’ll write another gear guide for pillows later but I’m very comfortable recommending the Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow to the vast majority of folks. Get one and it might just change your backcountry sleep experience like it did for me.
Somewhat important: Stuff sack
Like we discussed above, down isn’t waterproof. I highly recommend a waterproof stuff sack unless you have something else that will keep it dry on the move (you can always just bring a trashbag). They’re fairly inexpensive and can save you from a cold night or a long hike out in the dark.
My pick is the Sea to Summit Ultra Sil Dry Sack. Your manufacturer should list the volume of your bag so you know which one to buy. I also recommend sizing up a tiny bit because you can throw other items (like down jackets) in as well and it’s easy to compress.
Somewhat important: Shelter type
If you missed the Shelter/Tents Gear Guide then you should know there are lots of options for your backcountry shelter. Your choice of shelter also influences your choice of the best sleeping bag for elk hunting. For example, if you get a double wall tent that is fully waterproof it’s safer to go with a lighter weight down sleeping bag. If you’re planning on using a tarp or other exposed shelter you’ll probably want a synthetic bag, waterproof fabric, and/or a lower temperature rating.
There is no “right” answer here but make sure to factor your shelter type into your sleeping bag decision. If you’re new to the backcountry I recommend erring on the side of safety… you can always go lighter as you gain confidence.
Somewhat important: Baffle design
See how the stitches in the sleeping bag (or quilt) create those lumps? Those are called baffles. They stop the insulation from moving around inside the fabric so it’s evenly distributed. One feature I love in my bags are “continuous baffles”. That simply means a baffle that wraps all the way around the bag (like you are wearing a belt if you’re in it).
Remember how I said you crush all the insulation you’re laying on top of? Well continuous baffles allow you to push the insulation to where you want it in the bag. If it’s a hot night, push the insulation to the back of the bag, where it will be crushed. If it’s really cold you can push all the insulation to the front of the bag, where it will add the most warmth. Continuous baffles aren’t mandatory but they’re really nice to have.
Somewhat important: Waterproof down
Wait, the manufacturer said they have waterproof down coatings, isn’t that the best of both worlds? Well, maybe. Down coatings are plastic based and they are relatively new so nobody knows how they’ll hold up in the long term (and you never know exactly when they’ll stop working). They also add weight and do decrease the loft of the down as opposed to no coating at all, which decreases warmth slightly.
In other words, I’m not sold yet. If it makes you sleep better at night, go for it, but you still have to treat your bag as if it isn’t waterproof. I know that my untreated bags will last 25 years and act the same way the entire time. I think the “need” for waterproof down is driven by marketing and not actuality but I’m more than open to being very wrong.
Somewhat important: Price
There are two ways to approach how much you spend on a sleeping bag. On one hand, a good down bag will last 20-30 years if treated properly and is a true investment. You can save a lot of weight (pounds!) and volume with an expensive bag. A good sleeping bag for elk hunting should work for summer and spring as well.
On the other hand, a $50 synthetic 20 degree bag will be just as warm as a $600 down 20 degree bag. If you’re okay with carrying the extra weight and volume you’ll be just fine.
In the end, it’s up to you. It’s always nice to have an extra bag for the car (since you should car camp and backpack at the same time), so you can buy a cheap bag to begin with and upgrade later. That way you also know you have the right temperature rating when you drop lots of money on a nice version (or, heaven forbid, you figure out backpacking isn’t for you).
Factors that are not important in a sleeping bag for elk hunting
These are factors that really don’t matter unless you have a truly unique situation. You’ll save money and time if you ignore these items:
Not important: Left or right zipper
The only reason manufacturers specify which side the zipper is on is so that couples can get bags with zippers on opposite sides if they want. That way they can zip the bags together, which trust me (my wife is my hunting partner), you never end up doing anyway. Worry about other things unless you plan on camping with your significant other and you’re buying two bags from the same manufacturer with the same zipper.
Not important: Color
It’s going to be in your pack or in your tent, no animal is going to see it. Don’t worry about color. If I have a choice, I actually like bright colors in case I get hurt and have to make an emergency bivy… it would be easier for rescuers to find you.
Tips & Tricks
It’s very important to store your sleeping bag uncompressed. Compression breaks or bends insulation fibers over time so that they take up less room. Less volume equals less warmth! Keep your sleeping bag in the large storage sack it came with whenever possible and you’ll extend its life.
It takes sleeping bag insulation a while to fully expand before it occupies max volume (and therefore max warmth). Make sure to pull your sleeping bag out first thing when you set up camp so it has an hour or two to expand. You’ll notice the bag is much warmer that way.
If you find your sleeping bag is too cold, you can buy a sleeping bag liner, wear more clothing layers to bed (and a beanie), or get a higher R-value sleeping pad. If you constantly have cold toes you can always pour hot water in a bottle before you go to bed and put it in the foot of your bag.
I tend to always wear at least my midlayer jacket to bed so I can keep my phone battery warm during the night in the pockets (and set a vibration only alarm in the morning). It also allows me to fall asleep with the bag at waist height (not too hot) and pull it up once during the night when I get cold. That way I have the right amount of insulation as the temperature plummets instead of constantly waking up and adjusting.
Still have questions? Have feedback?
Drop me a line in the comments below and I’m more than happy to help you find the best sleeping bag for elk hunting.